How to Fix a Leaky Faucet: A Step-by-Step Guide to Stop the Drip and Save Money

There’s a tiny sound that can drive a homeowner slowly mad: drip, drip, drip. A leaky faucet may seem like a small annoyance, but the persistent drip can waste thousands of gallons of water a year, raise your water bill, and quietly signal a plumbing problem that can get worse if ignored. The good news is that many faucet leaks are repairable without calling a plumber. With a few tools, a little patience, and the right guidance, you can learn how to fix a leaky faucet and restore peace to your sink.

In this comprehensive, step-by-step guide I’ll walk you through how to identify the type of faucet you have, what usually causes leaks, exactly how to disassemble and repair each common faucet type, and how to avoid common mistakes. I’ll include tool lists, parts tables, troubleshooting charts, and practical tips you can use whether you’re a beginner or someone who’s fixed a few things before. By the end of this article you’ll know how to fix a leaky faucet, how long the job should take, and when it’s time to call a professional.

Why Fix a Leaky Faucet? The Hidden Cost of a Small Drip

At first glance a gentle drip looks harmless. But leaks add up. A faucet that drips once per second can waste over 3,000 gallons of water every year. Beyond that, standing water from leaks can damage cabinet finishes, encourage mold growth, and signal erosion or corrosion inside the faucet that will worsen over time. Fixing a leaky faucet is often a quick way to save money and prevent bigger problems down the road.

Fixing leaks yourself also gives you a better understanding of how your home’s plumbing works and builds confidence for future repairs. In many cases the repair requires only a new washer or o-ring and a few simple tools. Even for more complicated cartridge or ball-type faucets, the steps are straightforward once you know what to look for.

Before You Start: Safety, Preparation, and What You’ll Need

Before diving into how to fix a leaky faucet, it’s important to prepare. A good repair starts with the right tools, a clear workspace, and safety awareness. Most faucet repairs are low-risk, but you’ll be working with metal parts, narrow spaces, and pressurized water lines. Take a few minutes to gather supplies and protect the area under the sink.

Essential Tools and Materials

Here’s a practical list of the basic tools and materials to have on hand. Most of these are inexpensive and reusable. If you don’t own something, consider borrowing from a friend or buying a low-cost kit that covers the basics.

• Adjustable wrench – for valves and nuts
• Basin wrench – extremely helpful for tight spaces under the sink
• Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers – for handle screws and retaining screws
• Allen (hex) keys – often needed for set screws on handles
• Pliers – for gripping and turning small parts
• Needle-nose pliers – for accessing small clips and O-rings
• Replacement parts – washers, O-rings, cartridges, seats & springs (see table below)
• Plumber’s grease or silicone grease – for lubricating O-rings and moving parts
• Plumber’s tape (Teflon tape) – for threaded connections
• Old towel or small bucket – to catch water and protect the cabinet
• Cleaning cloth and vinegar – for removing mineral build-up
• Flashlight – to see under the sink
• Shop vac (optional) – for cleaning debris from the sink area

Not every job requires every tool. For example, replacing a simple washer in a compression faucet needs only wrenches and a screwdriver. Replacing a cartridge may need hex keys and needle-nose pliers. A basin wrench becomes essential if you have limited access under the sink.

Parts and Costs: What You Might Need

Below is a table listing common parts you may need to fix a leaky faucet, with approximate costs. Prices vary by brand and region, but this gives a ballpark estimate so you know whether it’s worth trying the repair yourself.

Often, a small kit of faucet parts will contain the washers and O-rings you need for multiple faucet models. If you’re uncertain about the part, remove the faulty piece and take it to a hardware store to match it, or photograph it and use online resources to find the correct replacement.

Shutting Off the Water and Prepping the Work Area

Before you touch the faucet, turn the water off. Most sinks have shut-off valves under the cabinet: one for cold and one for hot. Turn them clockwise until they stop. If your home doesn’t have local shut-off valves or they don’t function, you may need to turn off the main water supply to the house.

Place a towel or shallow pan under the sink to catch any drips. Open the faucet after shutting off the valves to relieve residual pressure and drain remaining water in the lines. Keep a small bucket or bowl nearby to hold small parts so they don’t get lost. Use a flashlight to inspect the area and make sure you have room to work.

Understanding Faucet Types: Why the Repair Steps Differ

One of the first things to know when learning how to fix a leaky faucet is the faucet type. Different internal mechanisms require different repair steps. The four most common faucet types are:

• Compression (two-handle) faucets
• Cartridge faucets
• Ball faucets (single-handle)
• Ceramic disk faucets (single-handle)

Each type has distinct internal parts and leak causes. Identifying your faucet type guides the steps for disassembly and parts replacement.

Compression Faucets (Two-Handle)

Compression faucets are older designs that use washers to stop the flow of water. The handles screw down to press a rubber washer against a valve seat. Over time the washer or the seat can wear, causing leaks. If you hear a drip under the sink or from the spout when the handle is off, you may only need to replace the washer or seat.

Compression faucet repairs generally require removing the handle and stem, replacing the washer, and reassembling. They’re among the easiest to repair because the parts are simple and inexpensive.

Cartridge Faucets

Cartridge faucets have a cartridge inside that moves up and down or rotates to control water flow. The cartridge contains seals that can wear out, causing leaks. Replacing the cartridge usually fixes the issue. Cartridges are available for many brands; some are proprietary so you may need to match the exact model.

These faucets can be single-handle or double-handle; the repair process involves removing the handle, extracting the retaining clip or nut, and pulling out the cartridge. Clean the housing and lubricate O-rings when installing the replacement.

Ball Faucets

Ball faucets (often from Delta) use a ball inside a housing to control temperature and flow. They have several small parts including seats and springs that commonly wear out. Leaks in ball faucets can appear from the spout, around the handle, or at the base. Ball faucet repair kits containing new seats and springs often resolve leaks without replacing the whole faucet.

Ball faucets are somewhat more complex to repair because of the internal ball and cam components that must be reassembled correctly for proper operation.

Ceramic Disk Faucets

Ceramic disk faucets contain two ceramic disks that move against each other to control water flow. They are durable and less likely to leak than older designs, but the seals around the disk or the housing can fail. Replacing the ceramic cylinder or the entire cartridge-like assembly is the usual fix.

Ceramic disk faucets are common in modern single-handle kitchen faucets; repairs often involve removing the handle and unscrewing the cylinder to replace worn parts.

How to Identify Your Faucet Type

Identifying your faucet type is straightforward if you look at the handle and how it moves. Here are easy clues to help you identify the model before you start to fix a leaky faucet.

• Two separate handles that turn clockwise and counterclockwise: Likely compression faucet.
• Single handle that lifts and rotates: Could be cartridge, ball, or ceramic disk. Check how the handle moves — if it tilts side to side and up/down with a smooth motion, it’s likely a cartridge or ceramic disk. If the handle moves with a ball inside (you can often hear/feel a spherical motion), it’s a ball faucet.
• Manufacturer logo or model number: Look under the sink, on the base of the faucet, or inside handle covers for stamps or labels. These make matching replacement parts easier.

When in doubt, take pictures of the faucet before disassembly and bring them to a hardware store or reference online parts diagrams from the manufacturer.

Step-by-Step Repairs for Each Faucet Type

Now we’ll walk step-by-step through the repair process for the most common faucet types. Each section includes precautions, common causes of leaks for that faucet type, and detailed procedures. Read the entire section for your faucet type before starting so you understand the full process.

How to Fix a Leaky Compression Faucet (Two-Handle)

Compression faucets leak typically because the rubber washer that seals the valve is worn or hardened. Replacing that washer is usually the solution. Here’s how to do it correctly.

1. Shut off the water. Close the hot and cold shut-off valves below the sink. Open the faucet to relieve pressure and drain the lines.

2. Remove the handle. Pry off decorative caps on the handle, then unscrew the handle screw. Pull the handle away from the faucet.

3. Unscrew the packing nut. Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the packing nut (also called the bonnet nut). Turn counterclockwise until it’s loose enough to remove by hand.

4. Remove the stem. Pull the stem straight out; some stems unscrew. Inspect the stem for damage and note the washer at the end.

5. Replace the washer. The washer is usually secured with a small screw. Remove the screw, take off the old washer, and replace with the correct size new washer. Apply a small amount of plumber’s grease to the washer to help it seat smoothly.

6. Inspect and clean the valve seat. Mineral deposits can damage seats. Use vinegar or a small wire brush to clean the seat inside the valve body. If the seat is damaged, it may need to be replaced or refaced.

7. Reassemble the faucet. Reinsert the stem, snug the packing nut, and replace the handle. Turn the shut-off valves back on and test.

If the faucet still drips after replacing the washer, the valve seat may be worn and need to be re-machined or replaced. A worn seat is a tougher fix and sometimes it’s more practical to install a new faucet.

How to Fix a Leaky Cartridge Faucet

Cartridge faucets are a common modern design. Leaks often happen because the cartridge seals or O-rings have worn out. Replacing the cartridge or seals is usually the remedy.

1. Shut off supply lines and relieve pressure. Turn off the under-sink valves and open the faucet to drain water.

2. Remove the handle. Locate and remove the handle screw (often under a decorative cap). Pull the handle off to expose the cartridge retaining nut or clip.

3. Remove the retaining clip or nut. Some faucets have a retaining clip; others use a nut. Remove this with pliers or an adjustable wrench. Keep track of any small fasteners.

4. Pull out the cartridge. Grasp the cartridge firmly and pull straight up. If it’s stuck, gently wiggle it or use pliers with a rag to avoid scratching. Some cartridges slide out; others require turning slightly to remove.

5. Inspect and replace O-rings and seals. Check O-rings for nicks or stiffness. Replace any damaged O-rings with matching sizes. If the cartridge itself is damaged, replace with a new one. Take the old cartridge to the store to get an exact match if needed.

6. Clean the inside of the valve body. Remove mineral deposits and debris. Use vinegar or a mild cleaner and a cloth or brush.

7. Install the new cartridge or seals. Apply a thin coat of plumber’s grease to new O-rings and the cartridge exterior. Insert the cartridge in the same orientation as the old one. Secure with the clip or nut.

8. Reassemble the handle and test. Reinstall the handle, turn on the supply valves, and operate the faucet to check for leaks. Make small adjustments if you notice any issues.

Cartridge replacements are very effective and typically restore smooth operation. If you experience leaks after replacement, ensure all O-rings are seated properly and the cartridge is inserted fully.

How to Fix a Leaky Ball Faucet

Ball faucets have a plastic or metal ball within a housing, along with seats and springs that can wear out. Leaks commonly occur if the seats and springs are worn or if the ball has become scratched or corroded.

1. Turn off the water and remove the handle. Close the shut-off valves and open the faucet to drain. Remove the handle and any decorative caps.

2. Remove the cam and cam washer. Under the handle is usually a cam assembly. Remove this to access the ball.

3. Extract the ball and inspect it. Carefully remove the ball. Check for scratches, pits, or corrosion. Replace the ball if damaged; replacement balls are inexpensive.

4. Replace seats and springs. At the spout’s base are two rubber seats and metal springs. Remove them and replace with new ones from a ball faucet repair kit. Seats and springs are a common cause of leaks and are the simplest fix for this faucet type.

5. Inspect cam and cam washer. If worn, replace them. These parts help the handle move smoothly and hold the ball in place.

6. Reassemble the faucet in reverse order. Make sure the ball is correctly positioned and the cam secures it. Tighten everything snugly but don’t overtighten and restrict movement.

7. Test for leaks and smooth operation. Turn on the supply valves, operate the handle through its range, and check for drips at the spout or base.

Ball faucet repairs often require a specific repair kit designed for the brand. If you have a Delta or other brand, kits are typically available that include the seats, springs, and any small parts you’ll need.

How to Fix a Leaky Ceramic Disk Faucet

Ceramic disk faucets are durable, but if you notice a leak it’s usually due to worn seals or a damaged cylinder assembly. Replacing the cylinder or seals typically resolves the issue.

1. Turn off water supply and drain lines. Close the shut-off valves and open the faucet.

2. Remove the handle and any escutcheon screws. Access the ceramic cylinder assembly by removing decorative pieces and the mounting nut.

3. Unscrew the cylinder housing. Carefully remove the cylinder housing and the ceramic disks inside. Note how they are oriented for reassembly.

4. Inspect seals and cylinder. Replace any rubber seals or the entire cylinder if the disks are worn or the cylinder is damaged.

5. Clean the housing and lubricate seals. Use a small amount of plumber’s grease on the seals to ensure smooth movement.

6. Reassemble and test. Reassemble in reverse order, making sure the cylinder and seals are seated properly. Turn on the valves and check for leaks.

Ceramic disk repairs are similar to cartridge repairs in concept but require attention to the fragile ceramic surfaces. Avoid dropping or scratching the disks as they can become ineffective if damaged.

Common Leak Locations and What They Mean

Understanding where the leak originates helps you diagnose the cause more quickly. Below is a handy chart that matches leak locations to common causes and suggests the likely fix. Use this as a quick reference when you’re trying to figure out what part to replace.

Diagnosing the exact origin of a leak may require partial disassembly to confirm the worn part. If a simple washer or O-ring replacement doesn’t stop the leak, you’ll need to inspect deeper components like the cartridge, ball, or valve seat.

Step-by-Step: How to Replace Faucet O-Rings and Spout Seals

O-rings are small but vital. They help seal the spout and handle assemblies. Replacing worn O-rings is a common and simple fix for leaks that originate at the base of the spout or around the handle.

1. Turn off water and remove handle or spout. Drain the lines and remove the handle or pull the spout off per manufacturer instructions.

2. Locate and remove old O-rings. Use needle-nose pliers or a flathead screwdriver to carefully pry out the old O-rings. Be gentle to avoid scoring the metal.

3. Measure and match new O-rings. Use calipers or compare sizes against an O-ring kit to match diameter and thickness. O-rings come in different materials; for faucets use EPDM or silicone O-rings designed for potable water.

4. Lubricate and install new O-rings. Apply a thin coat of plumber’s grease to the O-rings before sliding them into place. This helps them seat properly and reduces friction.

5. Reassemble and test. Reinstall the spout and handle, turn the water back on, and check for leaks.

O-rings are inexpensive and easy to replace. Because they are small, keep parts organized so you don’t lose them during the repair.

Troubleshooting: What to Do If the Faucet Still Leaks

Sometimes a faucet continues to leak after a basic repair. Don’t panic. Use a systematic approach to find the source of the ongoing leak and take corrective action.

1. Double-check water shut-off. Make sure you turned both hot and cold shut-off valves fully off before disassembling. Also ensure supply lines are closed before reassembling to prevent surprises.

2. Inspect new parts. Confirm the replacement parts are the correct size and properly seated. A mis-sized washer or an O-ring flipped the wrong way can cause leaks.

3. Look for hairline cracks or corrosion. Older faucet bodies can crack or corrode internally. If you see metal flaking or deep pitting, the faucet may need replacement.

4. Check the valve seat. Even with a new washer, a worn valve seat may not seal properly. Seats can be re-faced with a seat dresser tool or replaced.

5. Confirm tightness of connections. Don’t overtighten, but ensure nuts and retaining clips are secure. Loose mounting nuts beneath the sink can cause movement that leads to leaks.

6. Test with paper towel or tissue. After reassembly, wrap a bit of tissue around suspect joints and check for wet spots while the water is on. This helps pinpoint the leak source.

If you’ve tried the above and the leak persists, consider replacing the entire faucet. New faucets have warranties and modern designs that reduce future leaks. If you’re uncertain, a licensed plumber can provide a diagnosis and estimate.

Preventative Maintenance to Keep Faucets From Leaking

Regular maintenance reduces the chance of leaks and extends the life of your faucets. Small, routine tasks are better than major repairs down the road.

• Clean aerators periodically. Mineral buildup in aerators can cause erratic flow and pressure. Unscrew the aerator, soak in vinegar, and scrub gently.
• Operate handles gently. Avoid slamming handles or turning them excessively hard. Smooth movements reduce wear on internal parts.
• Replace worn O-rings and washers early. If you notice stiffness or small leaks, change the small seals before they cause larger problems.
• Inspect under-sink supply lines annually. Look for corrosion, bulging, or leaks in braided hoses and fittings and replace if necessary.
• Use water softeners if you have hard water. Hard water accelerates mineral buildup and wear in faucets. Softening the water can prolong faucet life.

Prevention is cost-effective. Investing a few minutes every few months to inspect and clean faucets can prevent major replacements later.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Fixing a Leaky Faucet

DIY repairs save money but poorly executed fixes can cause new problems. Avoid these common mistakes when you attempt to fix a leaky faucet.

• Not shutting off the water. This is the most common error. Always turn off the supply valves and relieve pressure before starting.
• Overtightening nuts. Over-tightening can strip threads, crack housings, or warp parts. Hand-tight plus a quarter turn with a wrench is usually sufficient.
• Using petroleum-based grease on rubber parts. Petroleum products degrade rubber. Use silicone-based plumber’s grease for O-rings and seals.
• Forcing stuck parts. Gentle, steady pressure works better than brute force. Heat (warm water or a hair dryer) can help loosen stuck cartridges or spouts.
• Not matching parts precisely. Bringing the old part to the store or referencing the model number is essential; mismatched parts often fail quickly.

A calm, measured approach saves time and frustration. If you feel resistance beyond scale or complexity, pause and reassess rather than forcing an unfamiliar part to move.

How Long Does It Take and How Much Will It Cost?

Time and cost depend on the faucet type and extent of the repair. Here are typical estimates to help you plan.

Hiring a plumber typically costs more due to labor; expect a service call fee plus hourly charges. DIY repairs are cost-effective if you have the tools and the ability to identify the correct parts.

When to Call a Professional Plumber

While many faucet leaks are DIY-friendly, there are situations where it makes sense to call a professional:

• Leaks under the sink that indicate a damaged supply line or shut-off valve failure.
• Severe corrosion, cracked faucet bodies, or extensive damage to the sink or countertop.
• If you’re uncomfortable turning off the main water supply or working in tight spaces.
• Requiring specialized tools like a valve seat dresser or when re-threading is necessary.
• Complex installations such as wall-mounted faucets or when replacing integral fixtures like a tub-shower diverter.

A good plumber can diagnose tricky leaks quickly and may offer a warranty on the repair that a DIY solution doesn’t provide. Get multiple quotes for major repairs or replacements to ensure you’re getting a fair price.

Eco-Friendly Considerations: Water Conservation and Responsible Disposal

Fixing a leaky faucet is an easy way to conserve water. Beyond that, consider these environmentally responsible steps:

• Dispose of old rubber parts responsibly. Rubber washers and O-rings can often be tossed in household waste; however, check your local recycling guidance for rubber and metal parts.
• Recycle metal cartridges and parts if possible. Many metal components are recyclable; separate them and take them to a metal recycling facility if local curbside services won’t accept them.
• Use water-efficient faucets when replacing. Look for faucets with WaterSense certification or aerators that reduce flow while maintaining pressure.
• Consider a home water audit. If you find multiple leaks, a whole-home assessment might reveal systemic issues and opportunities for water conservation upgrades.

Small repairs have big environmental benefits. Fixing leaks can save thousands of gallons of water annually, which helps reduce your home’s environmental footprint and save money.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Why does my faucet drip even when it’s turned off?

A persistent drip usually means a worn washer, O-ring, or seal that’s no longer forming a tight seal. In cartridge or disc faucets it can mean a damaged cartridge. Identify the faucet type and inspect the internal seals to fix the leak.

Can I use any replacement cartridge or do I need the exact model?

It’s best to use a cartridge that matches the model or is listed as compatible by the manufacturer. Universal cartridges exist but may not fit or function as smoothly. Bring the old cartridge to the store to find an exact match if possible.

Is it better to repair or replace an old faucet?

If the faucet is very old, corroded, or the cost of parts approaches the cost of a new faucet, replacing it can be more practical. New faucets may be more water-efficient and come with warranties.

How do I remove a stuck faucet spout?

Apply penetrating lubricant around the base, let it sit, and gently twist while pulling up. Heat (a hair dryer) can expand metal slightly and help. Use a cloth to avoid scratching. If stuck badly, remove mounting nuts and access from below to push it free.

Are there any parts I should never try to replace myself?

Most small internal parts are safe for DIY replacement. Avoid major plumbing alterations, soldering copper lines, or modifying water supply routing unless you have plumbing experience. For complex issues or when uncertain, call a licensed plumber.

Useful Checklist: Quick Steps to Fix a Leaky Faucet

Here’s a simple checklist you can print or save on your phone to guide you through a basic faucet repair. It condenses the key points into actionable steps so you don’t forget anything mid-repair.

1. Identify faucet type (compression, cartridge, ball, ceramic disk).
2. Gather tools and parts: wrench, screwdriver, O-rings, washers, grease.
3. Shut off water supply at under-sink valves and open faucet to drain.
4. Remove handle and decorative parts carefully (note screw sizes and positions).
5. Extract valve stem/cartridge/ball and inspect for wear or damage.
6. Replace worn washers, O-rings, seats & springs, or the cartridge/ball as needed.
7. Clean valve seats and interior with vinegar or a brush.
8. Lubricate new O-rings with silicone-based plumber’s grease.
9. Reassemble faucet in reverse order, making sure parts are oriented correctly.
10. Turn on water supply and test for leaks and smooth operation.
11. If leak persists, re-inspect seating, tightness, and part compatibility; call a plumber if necessary.

Real-World Tips from Experienced DIYers

Here are a few practical insights you’ll appreciate when you’re under the sink with tools in hand:

• Take photos at each step. Photographing disassembly makes reassembly far easier, especially for complex faucet configurations.
• Label small parts in bowls. Keep screws, springs, and clips organized and labeled so you don’t mix them up.
• Bring the old part when shopping. Hardware store staff can usually match cartridges and seals if you bring the original piece.
• Work in daylight or with a bright flashlight. Visibility makes tiny parts and threads much easier to handle.
• Keep a towel handy to dry the area and hold parts. Dry surfaces prevent slipping and help you see leaks during testing.

These small habits will save time and reduce frustration when you work on how to fix a leaky faucet.

Case Studies: Fixing Real Faucet Leaks

Let’s look at a few short real-world examples to illustrate how common problems are identified and solved.

Case 1: Kitchen faucet drips only from hot side

Problem: A homeowner noticed drip from the kitchen spout only when the hot handle was off. The faucet was a two-handle compression style, used for 15 years.

Diagnosis: The hot side compression washer had hardened and no longer sealed against the valve seat. The homeowner replaced the washer and cleaned mineral deposits from the seat. The leak stopped immediately.

Lesson: Compression washers are cheap and degrade over time. Replacing them is often the quickest fix.

Case 2: Single-handle bathroom faucet drips continuously

Problem: A single-handle bathroom faucet dripped continuously from the spout despite no water usage. The sink had signs of mineral buildup around the base.

Diagnosis: After disassembly, the cartridge showed worn seals and mineral deposits. The homeowner replaced the cartridge with a matching unit, cleaned the valve body, and lubed the O-rings.

Lesson: Cartridge replacement is straightforward and usually effective. Bring the old cartridge to match the new one.

Case 3: Leaky ball faucet at base and from spout

Problem: A single-handle ball faucet leaked both from under the handle and occasionally from the spout. The faucet was 8 years old.

Diagnosis: The seats and springs were worn out and the ball had minor scratches. The homeowner replaced seats and springs with a repair kit and installed a new ball. Operation was restored and leaks stopped.

Lesson: Ball faucets often respond well to seat and spring replacements. Kits are inexpensive and relatively easy to install if you follow the orientation carefully.

Conclusion: Take Control of the Drip

A leaky faucet is one of those household problems that’s both common and surprisingly fixable. Whether you have a simple compression faucet or a more modern cartridge or ball design, understanding the internal parts and having the right tools makes the job manageable. By following practical steps — shutting off water, carefully disassembling, inspecting seals and seats, and replacing worn parts — you can learn how to fix a leaky faucet and enjoy the quiet, improved water efficiency and savings that follow.

Remember to take your time, use the right replacement parts, and avoid common mistakes like overtightening or using incorrect lubricants. If a repair feels beyond your skill level, a licensed plumber can diagnose and fix more complicated issues safely and efficiently. With this guide, you now have a detailed roadmap to tackle leaks confidently and keep your home’s plumbing in good working order.

Further Resources and Recommended Reading

If you enjoyed this guide and want more detailed diagrams, manufacturer-specific instructions, or video walk-throughs, here are some suggestions:

• Manufacturer websites and parts diagrams (Moen, Delta, Kohler, Grohe)
• Home improvement store repair guides and part matching services
• DIY video tutorials that match your faucet model for visual guidance
• Local plumbing codes and best practices for complex installations

Fixing a leaky faucet is a practical way to save water, reduce bills, and make small improvements to your home. Armed with tools, curiosity, and patience, you can silence that drip and gain valuable DIY skills.

If you’d like, I can provide a printable checklist version of the steps, help identify the exact cartridge or part based on photos, or walk you through a specific faucet model step-by-step. Just tell me what faucet you have or upload a few pictures and I’ll help you match parts and plan the repair.