Welcome. If you’ve ever stared at a stack of shiny laminate planks and wondered where to begin—or if you’ve been putting off a flooring project because it seems complicated—this guide is for you. I’ll walk you through the entire process of installing laminate flooring, from planning and materials to the final trim and first sweep. You’ll get clear instructions, sensible tips, troubleshooting advice, and realistic cost and time expectations. By the end, you’ll know how to tackle a laminate floor installation with confidence.
Laminate flooring is one of the most popular choices for homeowners who want the look of hardwood at a lower cost, combined with good durability and relatively simple installation. Many laminate floors are designed to click together and float above the subfloor, making them friendly for DIYers. But that doesn’t mean there aren’t important details: underlayment choice, acclimation, expansion gaps, and transition pieces all matter. Skip or rush those steps and you could end up with gaps, squeaks, buckles, or an uneven finish.
This article is long and thorough because installing laminate well is about thinking ahead and working carefully. I’ll explain why each step matters, show you the right tools and supplies, give you templates for measuring and cutting, and share troubleshooting tips for common problems. Whether you’re a first-time installer or a homeowner looking to improve your technique, you’ll find something useful here.
Why Choose Laminate Flooring?
Before we get into the “how,” let’s talk a little about the “why.” Laminate flooring has earned its place in many homes thanks to a mix of attractive features:
- Affordability: You can get a convincing wood look for a fraction of the price of solid hardwood.
- Durability: Laminate resists scratches and stains better than many wood finishes, making it great for busy households, rentals, and areas with pets and kids.
- Variety: There are numerous styles, colors, and plank sizes—wide planks, herringbone patterns, rustic grains—so you can match many decor styles.
- Ease of installation: Many laminates use a click-lock system for floating installation, which eliminates messy adhesives and specialized nailing tools.
- Low maintenance: Regular sweeping and occasional damp mopping are often enough to keep laminate floors looking great.
Of course, laminate isn’t perfect. It can be sensitive to standing water, and the feel underfoot is different from solid wood. Some high-end engineered hardwoods and luxury vinyl plank (LVP) offer alternative options, but for many projects, laminate offers an excellent balance of cost, appearance, and durability.
Common Types of Laminate Flooring
Understanding the different types helps you choose the right product for your space:
- Standard laminate: Features a wood-look top layer over a fiberboard core. Good for living rooms, bedrooms, and hallways.
- Water-resistant laminate: Some products include a water-resistant core or treated top layer. These are better for kitchens and basements but are not necessarily fully waterproof.
- Waterproof laminate (rare): Newer technologies use specialized cores that claim full waterproof performance. Still, read manufacturer warranties carefully for wet areas.
- Textured and embossed: Planks can be smooth or textured to mimic the grain and knots of real wood.
- Wide planks vs. narrow planks: Wider planks create a more modern, open look while narrow planks can make a room feel busier and traditional.
Tools and Materials You’ll Need
Let’s cover the essentials. Having the right tools on hand makes the job faster and more accurate. Below is a practical table listing tools, their purpose, and whether a typical homeowner is likely to own them already.
| Item | Purpose | Typical Owner? |
|---|---|---|
| Laminate planks | The flooring material | Buy new |
| Underlayment | Moisture barrier, sound reduction, leveling | Buy new (often sold separately) |
| Tape measure | Accurate measuring and planning | Common |
| Utility knife | Cut underlayment, score planks (some types) | Common |
| Saw (miter saw, circular saw, jigsaw, or laminate cutter) | Cut planks to fit | May need to rent or buy |
| Tapping block and pull bar | Tap planks together without damage | Buy new or inexpensive set |
| Spacers | Maintain expansion gap along walls | Cheap and buy new |
| Rubber mallet | Lightly tap planks together | Common |
| Chalk line | Mark straight reference lines | Occasional use |
| Level | Check for flat subfloor | Common |
| Pull bar | Join last rows together | Often part of laminate tool kits |
| Safety equipment | Glasses, gloves, dust mask | Recommended |
It’s helpful to assemble these ahead of time so you don’t have to stop midway through the job. Renting a saw for a day can be cost-effective if you don’t plan on doing a lot of cutting in the future.
Optional Tools and Accessories
As you become more ambitious, consider these optional items:
- Laminate cutter (manual) — no dust and quick for straight cuts.
- Oscillating multi-tool — handy for notches around door jambs, vents, and odd shapes.
- Jigsaw — useful when cutting curves or complex shapes around pipes.
- Flooring puller — helps with removing baseboards and trim cleanly.
- Transition strips, reducers, thresholds — finish edges between rooms and at doorways.
Planning and Measuring
Good planning prevents expensive mistakes. Before you buy planks, you’ll need to measure the room, consider the layout, and calculate how much material to order. This section will walk you through the essential calculations and layout decisions.
Measuring Your Room
Measure length and width of the room in feet (or meters). Multiply length by width to get square footage. For irregular rooms—L-shapes, bay windows, or alcoves—divide the space into rectangular sections, calculate square footage for each, and add them together.
Example: A room is 12 feet by 15 feet. Area = 12 × 15 = 180 square feet.
Always account for doorways and closets; laminate typically runs continuously under door jambs for a cleaner look, so include those areas in your calculations.
How Much Extra Should You Buy?
Laminate is sold by the box, and each box covers a specific square footage. Because of cuts, mistakes, and matching grain patterns, it’s standard to buy 5–10% extra for simple rooms. For rooms with many cuts, diagonal patterns, or complicated shapes, buy 10–15% extra. If your room has multiple doors and tight spaces, err on the higher side.
Example calculation table:
| Room Area (sq ft) | Waste Factor | Total Required (sq ft) |
|---|---|---|
| 180 | 10% | 198 |
| 250 | 10% | 275 |
| 400 | 12% | 448 |
After you calculate total square footage, check how many square feet each box covers. Divide total required by box coverage, then round up to the nearest whole box.
Choosing a Layout Direction
Which way should the planks run? Several rules of thumb help decide:
- Run planks parallel to the longest continuous wall for the most visually pleasing look.
- Run planks in the direction of incoming light for a more seamless appearance, because grain lines draw the eye.
- Hallways typically use planks lengthwise along the hall; rooms that open into each other often look best with continuous direction.
- Floating floors should run perpendicular to the floor joists where possible to minimize sagging and ensure better support.
When in doubt, lay a few rows dry (without clicking them in) to see how the pattern looks in your space before committing.
Planning the First and Last Row Widths
You want the first and last rows to be at least a certain minimum width for appearance and stability—often about 2–3 inches minimum, depending on plank width. If the last row would be very narrow, adjust the starting cut so both edge rows are balanced.
To do this, measure the width of the room and divide by the plank width to see how many full planks will fit. If the leftover strip is less than the minimum acceptable, cut the first row narrower so the last one ends up wider. This is an easy adjustment but important for aesthetics.
Preparing the Subfloor
The subfloor is the foundation for your entire floor. Even the best laminate can perform poorly on an uneven or damp subfloor. Take time to clean, repair, and level the surface before you start laying planks.
Check for Level and Flatness
Use a long level or straightedge to check for low or high spots. Most laminate manufacturers will state allowable deviations—commonly 1/8” over 6 feet or 3/16” over 10 feet. If the subfloor is out of tolerance, you’ll need to sand high spots or use a leveling compound for low spots.
Wood subfloors (plywood or OSB) should be securely screwed or nailed down to avoid squeaks. Replace any rotten or damaged sections.
Clean and Dry
Remove nails, staples, and protruding screws. Clean any debris, glue, paint, or old adhesive. Laminate cannot be installed over wet areas. If you’re installing over a concrete slab, test moisture levels with a moisture meter or plastic sheet test. The plastic sheet test covers a 2×2 foot area with plastic for 24–72 hours—if moisture forms under the plastic, you have a moisture problem to address.
Moisture and Vapor Barriers
Concrete slabs often require a moisture or vapor barrier under the underlayment to prevent moisture migration into the laminate core. For wood subfloors, underlayment often provides sufficient barrier and sound reduction, but check the manufacturer’s instructions. Using the wrong underlayment or skipping the moisture barrier can void warranties and cause swelling or cupping.
Existing Flooring
You can often install laminate over existing hard floors, like tile, vinyl, or hardwood, provided the surface is flat, dry, and secure. Baseboards must be removed or cut slightly so the laminate can float beneath them for a clean edge. If the existing floor is cushioned vinyl or contains asbestos tiles, it’s usually better to remove it first.
Underlayment: Why It Matters
Underlayment is the thin layer between the subfloor and your laminate. It provides three key benefits: cushioning, sound reduction, and moisture protection. Choosing the right underlayment depends on your subfloor type and the laminate you buy.
Types of Underlayment
- Foam underlayment: The most common and affordable option. Provides sound reduction and minimal cushioning.
- Combination foam with vapor barrier: Foam with attached plastic film—ideal for concrete to block moisture.
- Cork underlayment: Natural, better sound absorption, slightly more expensive.
- Rubber underlayment: Superior sound absorption and durability, more expensive and often used in multi-story buildings.
- Felt underlayment: Thicker and provides more cushion; sometimes used under laminate for extra comfort.
Check your laminate manufacturer’s recommendations; some laminates come with built-in underlayment already attached or specify a maximum underlayment thickness to maintain locking mechanism integrity.
How to Lay Underlayment
Roll out the underlayment perpendicular to the direction you plan to lay the planks. Tape the seams according to the underlayment instructions—use underlayment tape or a low-profile construction tape. Don’t overlap underlayment unless it’s designed to overlap. Cut around door jambs and vents with a utility knife, and make sure the underlayment lies flat with no wrinkles.
Acclimation: Don’t Skip It
Laminate flooring needs to stabilize to the environment where it will be installed. Acclimation means letting the unopened boxes sit in the room for 48–72 hours so the planks expand or contract to the room’s temperature and humidity.
Place boxes flat in the center of the room or stack them as recommended by the manufacturer. Don’t open the boxes until you’re ready to lay the planks. If you install planks from cold storage without acclimation, you risk gapping when the boards expand in a warmer environment.
Installation Methods: Floating, Glue-Down, and Nail-Down
Laminate flooring can be installed several ways. Each has pros and cons and is appropriate for different substrates and use cases.
Floating Floor (Click-Lock)
This is the most common DIY method. Planks click together and float over the subfloor—no glue or nails are required. The entire floor moves as a single unit, which is why expansion gaps around the perimeter are essential.
Pros: Quick, clean, reversible, suitable for many subfloors. Cons: Sensitive to moisture; transitions require care.
Glue-Down
Some laminates (and many engineered hardwoods) are glued down to the subfloor. Glue-down can offer a more solid feel and is sometimes used in commercial settings or areas with heavy traffic. It’s not as common for modern DIY laminate with click systems, and it requires the right adhesive and skilled application.
Nail/Staple Down
Used chiefly for engineered hardwoods over wooden subfloors—less common for laminate because the click systems are designed for floating installations.
Step-by-Step: Installing a Floating Laminate Floor
Here’s a detailed, practical step-by-step guide for installing a click-lock floating laminate floor. Read all steps first, gather tools, and pace yourself—this is a job you can finish cleanly in a weekend in many rooms.
Step 1: Prepare the Room
Remove furniture, appliances, and baseboards or shoe molding. Take off door thresholds if needed, and remove doors from hinges if they’ll block plank insertion or if you need more clearance. Label doors if you remove them so rehanging is easy.
Inspect and repair the subfloor as needed. Make sure it is clean, dry, and flat.
Step 2: Lay the Underlayment
Roll out underlayment starting at one corner. Run it in the opposite direction from the plank installation so seams don’t line up. Tape seams and cut around obstacles. Underlayment should not overlap except when specifically designed to do so, and seams should be taped snugly.
Step 3: Plan Your First Row
Start in the longest, straightest wall or the most visible wall. Place spacers along the wall to maintain the required expansion gap (typically 1/4” to 3/8”, but check manufacturer specs). Lay the first plank with the tongue facing the wall, and continue across the room.
Cut the last plank in the row to fit, preserving the expansion gap.
Step 4: Stagger End Joints
Stagger end joints from row to row—this gives structural stability and a natural look. A common rule is to stagger at least 12 inches between adjacent row end joints for 7–8-inch wide planks, and proportionally more for wider planks. Don’t have any seams line up across several rows; randomize the cuts for a natural appearance.
Step 5: Click Planks Together
As you add planks, angle the tongue of the new plank into the groove of the installed planks and press down (or use the manufacturer’s recommended technique). Use a tapping block and rubber mallet to gently seat the joint if needed—never hit the planks directly. For the last plank in a row, use a pull bar to draw it into place tightly.
Step 6: Work Around Doors and Obstacles
For door jambs and trim that sit low, you can undercut them with a jamb saw so the plank slides underneath for a clean finish. For pipes and vents, trace the obstruction and cut the plank using a jigsaw. Leave the same expansion gap around obstacles as you would at walls—these gaps can be covered with pipe collars or caulk if needed.
Step 7: Finishing the Last Row
The last row typically needs to be cut lengthwise to fit. Measure carefully, remembering to subtract the expansion gap on the wall side. Use a pull bar to snug the last pieces tightly into place. If the last row becomes too narrow (less than the recommended minimum), consider trimming the first row slightly narrower so both edge rows are acceptable widths.
Step 8: Install Trim and Transitions
Reinstall baseboards or install new baseboards to cover expansion gaps. Don’t nail the baseboards into the floor—fasten them to the wall. Use transition strips between different floor types (tile to laminate, laminate to carpet) to allow movement and create clean visual changes.
Step 9: Clean Up and Inspect
Vacuum all dust and debris. Wipe the surface with a manufacturer-approved product if recommended. Walk the floor and press on seams to check for loose joints, and ensure all transitions are secure and level. Replace doors and threshold pieces, and reinstall furniture with felt pads under legs to prevent scratches.
Cutting Laminate: Tips and Techniques
Accurate cutting gives you a professional finish and reduces waste. Here’s a breakdown of cutting tools and how to use them safely for straight cuts, angled cuts, and irregular shapes.
Saw Options
- Miter saw: Best for long straight and angle cuts; fast and accurate. Use a fine-tooth blade for laminate to minimize chipping.
- Circular saw: Portable and common for straight cuts; use a guide or straightedge to keep cuts straight. Use a blade with many teeth to reduce splintering.
- Jigsaw: Useful for curves, holes for vents, and notches; keep the base flat and cut slowly to avoid tear-out.
- Laminate cutter: Quiet and dust-free for straight cuts, but limited to straight lines and can be slower for large jobs.
Use a scrap piece to test the cut and set saw depth correctly. Cutting on the back side and supporting both sides of the cut will reduce chipping.
Cutting Around Door Jambs and Pipes
To cut under door jambs, remove the base shoe and use a handsaw or jamb saw to undercut the jamb so the plank can slide under. For pipes, drill a hole slightly larger than the pipe diameter and then use a jigsaw to carve out the remaining shape, leaving room for expansion.
Transitions, Thresholds, and Expansion Joints
Floor transitions hide gaps between different flooring types and accommodate the floating floor’s movement. They’re essential for a polished look and proper function.
Types of Transitions
- T-molding: Joins two floors of equal height (e.g., two laminate rooms or laminate to hardwood).
- Reducer: Used where laminate meets a lower floor surface, like vinyl or hardwood.
- End cap/threshold: Used at the edge where laminate meets a vertical surface like a sliding glass door or concrete slab.
- Stair nosing: Used at the top of stairs to create a safe and finished edge.
Attach transition strips to the subfloor—not the laminate—so the floating floor can expand and contract independently without pulling away from the trim.
Dealing with Doors, Closets, and Room Transitions
Doorways and closets deserve special attention in laminate installations. For closet floors, laminate often continues underneath the door jamb for a continuous look. For transition areas and door thresholds, measure and install the appropriate transition type to cover expansion gaps.
Handling Door Clearance
If a plank is too high under a door, remove the door from the hinges and trim the bottom using a circular saw or plane. Measure the clearance needed by placing a plank where the door will swing and marking the plank thickness plus a small clearance. Trim the door to that measurement, then refit.
Installing Laminate on Stairs
Stairs are more difficult than flat floors. Most laminate is not recommended for stair treads as a direct replacement because stairs require specific nosing and more durable edge protection. If you’re determined to use laminate on stairs, you’ll need stair nosing designed for laminate and often adhesive and mechanical fasteners. For safety and longevity, consult manufacturer recommendations and consider professional help.
Cleaning, Maintenance, and Repairs
Laminate floors are straightforward to care for, but a few rules keep them looking their best and prolong their life.
Daily and Weekly Maintenance
- Sweep or vacuum regularly to remove grit that scratches the surface.
- Use a damp mop with a laminate-approved cleaner; avoid soaking the floor. Microfiber mops are excellent choices.
- Use felt pads under furniture legs and heavy items to avoid dents and scratches.
- Place mats at entrances to reduce tracked-in moisture and grit.
Dealing with Spills and Moisture
Wipe up spills promptly. For water or liquids that have soaked into seams, clean and dry the area quickly. Extended exposure to moisture can lead to swelling and delamination. For kitchens, buy a water-resistant laminate if you expect frequent spills, and never allow standing water.
Repairing Damaged Planks
Minor surface scratches can sometimes be disguised with lamination repair kits, wax sticks, or color-matched fillers. For deeply damaged planks, the best fix is often to replace the entire plank. Many manufacturers design click-lock systems so you can remove the damaged plank without removing the whole floor—this often involves carefully removing baseboards and unlocking rows to slide out the damaged piece.
Common Problems and How to Fix Them
Even careful installers can run into issues. Here are common problems and how to address them.
Gapping Between Planks
Gaps can occur if the floor wasn’t acclimated, if temperature/humidity changed drastically, or if the installer didn’t maintain proper tapping and connections. To fix minor gaps, press the planks together using a pull bar. For persistent gapping due to humidity changes, ensure the room’s climate is stable and check that you used the correct expansion gap along walls. If planks have dried and shrunk significantly, you may need to replace affected planks after stabilization.
Squeaks
Squeaks usually come from movement between the subfloor and the underlayment or from uneven subfloor areas. Check the subfloor and secure loose sections with screws. Adding additional screws to the subfloor can eliminate motion that causes noise. Avoid fastening laminate planks to the subfloor; fix the subfloor itself.
Delamination or Peeling
This is rare for modern laminate but can occur if exposed to excessive moisture or poor manufacturing. Replace affected planks and address the moisture source. If the manufacturer warranty is valid, check for coverage.
Cost, Time, and Difficulty Estimates
Understanding cost and time helps plan your project and avoid surprises. Prices vary widely by product quality, region, and the complexity of the installation.
Typical Costs
| Item | Typical Price Range (USD) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Laminate flooring (per sq ft) | $0.99 – $5.00+ | Higher-end or waterproof varieties cost more |
| Underlayment (per sq ft) | $0.10 – $0.75 | Combination with vapor barrier more expensive |
| Transition strips and trim | $15 – $75 per piece | Depends on material and length |
| Tools (buy or rent) | $0 – $150+ | Laminate cutter, saw rental, toolkits |
| Professional installation | $2 – $5 per sq ft (additional costs for removal and prep) | Varies with region and job complexity |
For a 200 sq ft room: material cost might be $200–$1000, underlayment $20–$150, trims and transitions $50–$200, plus tools if needed. Professional installation could add $400–$1000.
Time Estimates
Time varies by room size and installer experience. As a rough guide:
- Small room (100–200 sq ft): 1–2 days for DIY (including prep and cleanup).
- Medium room (200–400 sq ft): 2–4 days.
- Complex areas with many cuts, stair transitions, or multiple rooms: several days to a week.
If you plan to remove old flooring or repair subfloor issues, add time accordingly.
Eco-Friendly Options and Considerations
Laminate can have environmental implications because it’s often made from fiberboard and synthetic layers. Here are ways to minimize environmental impact:
- Choose products with formaldehyde-free or low-emission cores.
- Look for certifications such as FloorScore or GREENGUARD for low-VOC emissions.
- Buy responsibly sourced materials and avoid waste by accurate measuring.
- Consider reclaimed wood or engineered hardwood if sustainability is your top priority, though these options are usually more costly.
Warranties and Manufacturer Recommendations
Read the manufacturer warranty and installation guidelines carefully. Many warranties require specific underlayment types, acclimation periods, and professional or specified installation methods. Failing to follow the recommended steps can void the warranty. Keep your purchase receipt and a sample plank for future matching or warranty claims.
Step-by-Step Quick Checklist
Here’s a compact checklist you can print or refer to on the job site. Each line is a milestone to check off as you progress.
- Measure the room and calculate required materials (include waste factor).
- Purchase laminate, underlayment, adhesives (if needed), and trim.
- Gather tools: saw, tapping block, pull bar, spacers, level, safety gear.
- Acclimate flooring in the room for 48–72 hours.
- Inspect and repair the subfloor; ensure it is flat, clean, and dry.
- Lay underlayment and tape seams appropriately.
- Snap a chalk line and plan your starting wall and plank direction.
- Install the first row with spacers; cut the final plank to fit.
- Stagger joints and continue rows, tapping planks together tightly.
- Handle doorways, vents, and obstacles; leave expansion gaps around features.
- Install final row, transitions, and baseboards; remove spacers.
- Clean up the floor, replace doors, and apply furniture pads.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I install laminate over tile?
Yes, if the tile is firmly fixed and the surface is flat. Fill grout lines if they are deep and make sure the floor is level. If tile is very uneven, remove it or use underlayment designed to level the floor.
Is laminate waterproof?
Most traditional laminates are water-resistant but not fully waterproof. Newer products have waterproof cores and edges—check product specs. Even waterproof laminate requires good installation practices, including sealed transitions and quick cleanup of spills.
Can I install laminate in a basement?
Basements present moisture challenges. Use a moisture barrier underlayment and test the slab for moisture before installation. Consider water-resistant or waterproof laminate products specifically designed for below-grade installation.
How long does laminate last?
Good quality laminate installed properly can last 15–25 years depending on foot traffic and care. Higher-quality laminates have better wear layers and can handle decades of use.
Can I paint or refinish laminate?
Laminate can’t be sanded and refinished like solid wood. You can paint it with special primers and paints designed for laminate but results vary and it’s often better to replace worn planks or use area rugs.
Troubleshooting Quick Guide
Here are quick fixes for common problems:
- Gaps after installation: Ensure correct expansion gaps and check for temperature/humidity changes. Use a pull bar to close joints. If gaps persist, consider replacing affected planks after acclimation.
- Uneven seams: Check subfloor and underlayment. Replace underlayment if it is compressing or has wrinkles. Make sure you’re clicking planks correctly and using a tapping block, not hammering directly.
- Squeaks: Secure loose subfloor boards with screws; do not screw through laminate.
- Buckling: Usually a sign of no expansion gap or moisture buildup. Remove and re-lay affected area with correct gaps and moisture mitigation.
Real-life Example: Installing Laminate in a 12×15 Room
Let’s walk through a concrete, realistic example so you can see how the numbers and steps come together.
Room size: 12 ft × 15 ft = 180 sq ft. You decide on 8% waste factor because the room has a few doorways. Total needed = 180 × 1.08 = 194.4 → Round up to 195 sq ft. If each box covers 21.6 sq ft, you need 195 ÷ 21.6 = 9.03 → 10 boxes.
Tools and supplies are gathered, you acclimate the flooring for 48 hours, inspect the subfloor (it’s a clean, even plywood), lay underlayment with taped seams, and start the installation along the longest wall. You stagger joints by at least 12 inches and use spacers to maintain a 3/8” expansion gap around the room. With a rented miter saw and help from a friend, you complete the installation in two days, install baseboards (nailing to the wall only), and move furniture back in after 24 hours.
Total materials cost might be around $600 for mid-range laminate, $60 for underlayment, $100 for trim, $40 for rental saw, and incidentals—roughly $900 total versus $1,200 if hiring professionals.
Safety Tips
Install safely. Wear safety glasses when cutting, use ear protection for loud tools, and wear a dust mask if you create sawdust. Keep the workspace ventilated, and use clamps and guides for precise cuts. When lifting boxes, use proper body mechanics to protect your back. If you’re unsure about structural issues or moisture problems in basements, consult a professional.
Final Thoughts and Encouragement
Installing laminate flooring is a rewarding project that can transform a room and add value to your home. It’s an approachable DIY job for homeowners comfortable with basic carpentry and power tools. Take your time in the planning and prep stages—those steps pay dividends in a smoother installation and a better-looking finished floor. Measure carefully, acclimate the planks, and respect expansion gaps.
If this is your first floor, take one small space at a time. Lay a test run and practice clicking planks together until it feels comfortable. With the right preparation and patience, you’ll install a laminate floor that looks great and serves your household for years.
Thanks for reading—now pick your planks, gather your tools, and enjoy the satisfaction of installing your own beautiful floor.
Useful Quick Reference Tables
| Action | Time | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Acclimation | 48–72 hours | Do not open boxes until ready |
| Subfloor prep | Several hours to a day | Level, clean, repair as needed |
| Installation | 1–4 days | Depends on room size and cut complexity |
| Trim and finishing | 2–6 hours | Reinstall baseboards and transitions |
Checklist for Buying Laminate
- Measure accurately and add waste factor
- Choose plank style and width
- Select appropriate underlayment
- Confirm warranty requirements and installation instructions
- Order 10% extra for safety
When to Call a Pro
While DIY laminate installation is doable for many people, consider hiring a professional if:
- You have significant subfloor repairs or structural issues.
- Your project involves complicated transitions, stairs, or large irregular areas.
- You’re installing over radiant floor heating—some systems and products require specialist knowledge.
- You want a glued-down installation or specialized adhesives.
Good luck with your laminate flooring project. Take it one careful step at a time, and you’ll be standing on a fresh new floor before you know it.
