How to Soundproof a Room for Peace and Quiet: Practical Steps, Science, and Real-World Projects

Imagine coming home after a long day, closing the door, and entering a room that genuinely feels like a sanctuary — quiet, calm, and free from the noisy world beyond the walls. Soundproofing isn’t magic, but it often feels like it when it works. In this guide I’ll walk you through the science, the strategies, and the step-by-step projects you can tackle yourself or with professional help. Whether you want to reduce noisy traffic, keep music in a studio, or just get better sleep, this article gives you a complete roadmap to soundproof a room for peace and quiet.

We’ll cover why rooms are noisy, how sound travels, the most effective methods for blocking and absorbing noise, the difference between soundproofing and acoustic treatment, and exactly what to do for doors, windows, walls, floors, and ceilings. I’ll include tables and lists to make things easier to compare, and several DIY projects with realistic cost expectations. Read it all at once, or use the headings to jump to the topic you need most. Ready? Let’s get quiet.

Understanding Sound: How Noise Enters and Escapes a Room

Before we start stapling things to walls, it’s helpful to understand what noise is and how it moves. Sound is vibration traveling through a medium — usually air, but also solids like walls and floors. Those vibrations reach your ear and your brain interprets them as sound. Different types of noise behave differently: a bass drum or passing subway creates low-frequency energy that penetrates structures and travels long distances, while a slamming door or a human voice produces mid- and high-frequency sounds that are easier to block with lighter materials.

Knowing how sound behaves helps you choose the right strategy. Sound can travel through:

• Airborne paths — through gaps, windows, and open doors.
• Structure-borne paths — when vibrations travel through building materials like studs, floors, and pipes.
• Flanking paths — indirect routes where sound bypasses treated surfaces (for example, through ceilings, ductwork, or common walls).

Blocking one path while ignoring another will give you limited improvements. A complete approach reduces all the main paths and focuses on the types of sound that bother you most.

Key Terms You’ll See Often

Let’s define practical terms so the steps make sense.

• STC (Sound Transmission Class) — a rating that indicates how well a building element blocks airborne sound. Higher is better.
• NIC (Noise Isolation Class) — similar to STC, often used for assemblies or field-tested partitions.
• NRR (Noise Reduction Rating) — used for hearing protection, not building materials.
• Sound absorption — materials that reduce echo and reverberation inside a room (e.g., fabric panels, fiberglass).
• Soundproofing — measures to prevent sound from entering or leaving a room (e.g., adding mass or decoupling structures).

Principles of Effective Soundproofing

Four principles guide nearly every successful soundproofing strategy: mass, damping, decoupling, and absorption. Understanding how they work helps you mix and match techniques effectively.

1. Add Mass

Mass resists motion. The heavier a barrier, the harder it is for sound waves — especially higher frequencies — to move it. This is why thick concrete walls block sound much better than thin drywall. Adding mass often means adding layers: drywall, plywood, or specialized heavy materials like Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV).

2. Damping

Damping converts sound energy into heat by using viscoelastic materials between rigid layers. Products like Green Glue or acoustic damping compounds work this way: two rigid panels with a damping compound between them perform much better than the panels alone.

3. Decoupling

Decoupling separates two sides of a barrier so vibrations don’t pass through directly. Think resilient channels, double-stud walls, or resilient clips that create a break in the transmission path. Decoupling is especially important for low-frequency noise that would otherwise pass through rigid connections.

4. Absorption (for inside the room)

Absorptive materials reduce echo and reverberation by trapping sound energy. They are useful for improving sound quality inside rooms — for podcasts, music, or home theaters — and can make noise feel quieter overall by removing reflections. Examples include acoustic foam, fiberglass panels, and heavy curtains. Absorption alone won’t keep loud street noise out.

A Quick Analogy

Think of soundproofing like building a fortress: mass is your thick stone walls, damping is the energy-absorbing padding inside the walls, decoupling is building a moat so enemies can’t walk directly onto the walls, and absorption is the interior furnishings that stop echoes. Use them together and the room becomes a refuge.

Assessing Your Room: Identify the Problem Sources

Before choosing materials or starting projects, take time to assess your room. This saves time and money because you’ll target the most important weak points.

Walkthrough Checklist

• Stand in the room and listen: identify where the loudest sounds come from (windows, doors, ceiling, neighboring wall, HVAC, plumbing).
• Close windows and doors; then see how much the noise level changes. If it drops a lot, your main issue may be gaps around these openings.
• Tap walls, floors, and ceilings lightly to detect hollow spots where vibrations travel easily.
• Check for gaps around outlets, light fixtures, crown molding, baseboards, and built-in cabinets.
• Note any ducts, flues, or pipes that go into or through the room; these are common flanking paths.

Tools to Help You Measure

You don’t need a professional meter for useful information. A smartphone app can give rough dB readings; for serious work, rent or buy an SPL meter. If you plan to test before and after results, take measurements at the same positions and record the decibel levels.

Problem Area	How to Check	Typical Fixes
Windows	Close, listen for traffic; feel for drafts; note single-pane glass	Seal gaps, add heavy curtains, install double/triple glazing or window plug
Doors	Check for gaps around door edges and under the threshold; knock to test hollow core	Replace with a solid-core door, use seals, door sweeps, or acoustic panels
Walls	Listen for loud neighbors; tap to find hollow areas; check outlet plates	Add mass, decouple with resilient channels or double stud, use MLV
Ceiling	Listen for upstairs footsteps; identify HVAC noise	Decouple with resilient channels, add insulation, use suspended ceiling
Floors	Check for impact noise (footsteps); test with walking or dropping a light object	Use acoustic underlay, rugs, floating floors, or isolation pads
Ducts & Pipes	Listen for noise traveling through vents and plumbing	Add duct liner, flexible joints, sound baffles, or acoustic mufflers

Windows: The Most Leaky Part of Many Rooms

Windows are one of the most common weak points. Glass is thin and rigid, and window frames and gaps often allow lots of airborne noise. Here’s how to evaluate and improve them.

Quick Fixes (Low Cost, Fast Results)

• Weatherstripping: Apply high-quality adhesive weatherstripping to close gaps around window sashes. It’s cheap and very effective for small leaks.
• Sealant and Caulk: Use acoustic caulk around the window frame where it meets the wall. Acoustic caulk remains flexible and helps reduce vibration transfer.
• Thick Curtains or Moving Blankets: Heavy, densely woven curtains or specialized acoustic curtains can reduce high-frequency noise and improve perceived quiet.

These solutions won’t stop low bass, but they’re a good start and are reversible if you rent or want to maintain window operation.

Midrange Solutions

• Window Inserts: Acrylic or laminated glass inserts fit into the existing frame to create a dead air space and boost performance. They’re less expensive than full replacement and often effective.
• Secondary Glazing: Installing a second pane inside the existing frame can create a large air gap and substantially reduce noise.

Permanent Upgrades

If you own your home and want the best long-term solution, consider replacing windows with double- or triple-pane acoustic glazing with inert gas fills and laminated glass designed for sound insulation. A professional installer who understands acoustic glazing can match thickness and seat the windows properly to avoid flanking paths.

DIY Project: Build a Removable Window Plug

Window plugs are temporary, removable panels that fit snugly into a window frame and dramatically reduce noise when installed. They’re great for bedrooms at night or for recording studios that don’t need the view during sessions.

1. Measure the window opening precisely (height and width) and order or cut a rigid frame from plywood or MDF.
2. Attach an absorptive layer like Roxul (rock wool) inside the frame and cover it with plywood on the interior face.
3. Seal the edges with weatherstripping so the plug compresses slightly in the frame and blocks gaps.
4. Paint or cover the plug for aesthetic reasons; store when not in use.

Window plugs can reduce noise by 20–40 dB depending on construction and the original window’s condition.

Doors and Doorways: Big Leaks That Are Easy to Fix

Doors are another common point of failure because most interior doors are hollow-core and thresholds are rarely sealed for acoustics. Here’s how to approach doors.

Start by Sealing Gaps

• Install continuous door seals around the jamb to compress against the door face and block air paths.
• Use a door sweep or drop seal along the bottom to block the gap under the door. Automatic drop seals are more effective and unobtrusive.
• Apply acoustic foam or gaskets around the strike plate and hinges where necessary.

Consider a Solid-Core Replacement

Replacing a hollow-core interior door with a solid-core door is one of the most cost-effective upgrades for reducing airborne noise. A solid-core door adds mass and reduces transmitted sound. Pair it with proper seals and a threshold, and you’ll see a large improvement.

Adding Mass and Surface Treatments

• Attach acoustic panels or sound-damping blankets to the door surface when you need temporary isolation (e.g., practice sessions).
• For higher performance, build a door overlay using MDF or plywood filled with MLV and sealed around the edges. This increases mass and damping.

Walls: The Core of Soundproofing

Walls are usually the largest surface to treat, and improvements here often yield the biggest overall benefit. The methods you choose depend on whether you want to renovate, do light upgrades, or do major construction.

Simple Upgrades

• Seal all gaps: Acoustic caulk around outlets, trim, and any penetrations. Don’t forget areas behind baseboards and crown molding.
• Bookshelves and Furniture: Tall, filled bookshelves along a shared wall add mass and break up reflection paths. A bookshelf alone won’t stop low-frequency noise but improves mid/high-frequency reduction.
• Wall Hangings and Tapestries: Thick, dense textiles reduce reflections inside the room and slightly lower perceived noise.

Adding Mass with Minimal Disruption

Adding another layer of drywall is a common approach. Use 5/8″ drywall if possible, or two layers of 1/2″ with a damping compound like Green Glue between them. The damping compound dramatically improves performance because it dissipates vibrational energy.

Decoupling Options for Major Improvement

For serious sound isolation — for music rooms, home theaters, or noisy apartments — decoupling the wall from the structure is highly effective.

• Resilient channels: Metal channels attached across studs provide a mounting point for drywall that reduces direct transfer of vibration.
• Resilient clips and hat channel systems: These perform better than simple channels when installed correctly because they isolate the drywall from the framing even further.
• Double-stud walls: Two sets of framing with an air gap between them are one of the best ways to isolate sound. These are labor-intensive and require space.
• Staggered stud walls: A single wider wall with studs staggered so the two sides don’t touch each other directly at the same points.

Materials Table: Common Wall Solutions Compared

Method	Typical STC Increase	Cost (per sq ft) – Approx	Pros	Cons
Single-layer drywall + sealing	+2 to +4	$1–$3	Low cost, minimal disruption	Small improvement
Double drywall + Green Glue	+7 to +12	$3–$6	Good damping, reasonably cost-effective	Requires extra labor and slightly reduces room size
MLV + drywall	+5 to +10	$4–$8	High mass added without large thickness	Heavy and requires careful sealing
Resilient channel + double drywall	+8 to +15	$5–$10	Decouples walls, very effective	More complex installation
Double-stud wall	+15 to +20+	$8–$15	Excellent isolation, great for low frequencies	Consumes space, expensive

Ceilings and Floors: Dealing with Footsteps and Upstairs Noise

Sound traveling through floors and ceilings can be a major issue, especially in multi-level homes and apartments. There are two main categories: airborne noise (voices, TV) and impact noise (footsteps, dropped objects). Solutions vary accordingly.

Ceiling Solutions

• Resilient channels: They work for ceilings as well as walls; attach channels to the joists then mount drywall to the channels.
• Decoupled drop ceilings: A suspended ceiling with acoustic tiles and insulation can reduce both airborne and some impact noise. It’s less effective against very low frequencies but can be installed without ripping down the original ceiling.
• Insulation in the cavity: Dense insulation like mineral wool between joists reduces airborne transmission.

Combining a decoupled ceiling with added mass and cavity insulation is often the best approach for substantial noise reduction.

Floor Solutions

Floors transmit impact noise quickly. Here are common fixes:

• Carpets and rugs: Dense underpad with thick carpet can significantly reduce impact noise. It’s one of the cheapest and most immediate solutions.
• Acoustic underlayment: When installing new flooring, add neoprene, cork, or rubber underlayments to reduce impact and airborne noise.
• Floating floors: A constructed floating floor with isolating layers reduces vibrations that travel into the structure. Often used in professional studios.
• Isolation pads: Put under heavy equipment or subwoofers to prevent direct coupling to the structure.

HVAC, Ducts, and Plumbing: Don’t Forget the Flanking Paths

Ducts, vents, and plumbing carry both air and sound. Sound travels easily through them and can bypass even the best-sealed doors and walls. Addressing these paths requires thoughtful solutions so you don’t compromise airflow or safety.

Strategies for Ducts and Vents

• Duct liners: Acoustical duct liners or internal baffling reduce noise transmitted through HVAC systems.
• Flexible connections: Use flexible duct sections where ductwork meets equipment to reduce structure-borne vibration transmission.
• Sound attenuators and mufflers: Designed for HVAC, they reduce noise at the cost of some pressure drop — choose wisely with an HVAC technician.
• Use duct bends: A 90-degree bend with insulation lining can reduce direct sound transmission through a vent without blocking air entirely.
• Install external vent boxes: For exhausts, use lined boxes or mufflers to minimize external noise escape.

Plumbing and Pipes

Plumbing can transmit sound and create noise from water flow. Isolate noisy pipes with rubber hangers, insulate pipe runs, and add access panels with seals to reduce direct transfer into rooms.

Absorption and Interior Treatments: Improving Perceived Quiet

Even after you block the majority of external noise, rooms can still feel “lively” because sound reflects off hard surfaces. Acoustic treatments don’t block noise from outside, but they improve comfort and the room’s sound quality.

Common Absorptive Materials

• Ash panels and mineral wool panels: Effective broadband absorbers for mid and high frequencies.
• Acoustic foam: Good for high-frequency reflection control; inexpensive but less effective for bass.
• Bass traps: Corner-mounted traps that help control low-frequency energy in critical rooms like studios.
• Diffusers: Instead of absorbing, diffusers scatter sound to avoid focusing reflections, creating a more natural acoustic environment.

Placement Tips

Start with first reflection points — where sound from monitors or speakers strikes walls and ceiling. Use a mirror trick (sit in your listening/bed position while someone moves a mirror along the wall) to find reflection points. Cover them with absorbers or use furniture strategically to break reflections.

DIY Projects: Practical Soundproofing You Can Do This Weekend

You don’t need to be an expert to get measurable results. Here are a few practical weekend projects ranked by difficulty and impact.

Project 1: Seal and Weatherstrip (Difficulty: Easy)

1. Inspect windows, doors, electrical outlets, vents, and baseboards for gaps.
2. Use backer rod (foam) to fill large gaps, then apply acoustic caulk over it to ensure a flexible, airtight seal.
3. Install adhesive weatherstripping around windows and doors.
4. Install door sweeps if missing.

Time: 2–6 hours. Impact: Moderate. Cost: Low.

Project 2: Build a Window Plug (Difficulty: Moderate)

1. Measure the window opening and build a plywood frame to match.
2. Install dense insulation like Roxul inside the frame and seal with a rigid face panel.
3. Line the perimeter with weatherstripping and fit it into the frame when needed.

Time: 4–8 hours. Impact: High when in place. Cost: Low–moderate.

Project 3: Add Mass to a Wall with Green Glue (Difficulty: Moderate)

1. Remove trim as needed and prepare the wall surface.
2. Apply Green Glue between two layers of drywall, screw the assembly to the wall or resilient channel as needed.
3. Seal perimeter with acoustic caulk.

Time: 1–2 days including drying and finishing. Impact: High. Cost: Moderate.

Project 4: Floating Floor Over Existing Flooring (Difficulty: Advanced)

1. Remove baseboards and prepare the subfloor.
2. Lay an acoustic underlayment (neoprene, cork, or rubber).
3. Install a floating floor (laminate or engineered wood) over the underlayment, sealing with perimeter isolators.

Time: Weekend to several days depending on room size. Impact: High for impact noise. Cost: Moderate–high.

Choosing Materials: What to Buy and Where

Materials vary in price and effectiveness. Below is a practical shopping list with tips on where each item fits best.

• Acoustic caulk — for sealing gaps around trim and penetrations. Buy water-based acoustic caulk for indoor use.
• Weatherstripping and door sweeps — foam or silicone types for tight seals.
• Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) — heavy metallized vinyl that adds mass to walls, floors, and ceilings. Available in rolls; more effective when fully sealed.
• Green Glue damping compound — spread between drywall layers for damping.
• Resilient channels, clips, and hat channels — for decoupling wall and ceiling assemblies.
• Mineral wool (Roxul/Rockwool) — dense insulation that is both thermal and acoustic.
• Acoustic foam and panels — for interior absorption and reflection control.
• Solid-core doors — replace hollow doors for immediate improvement.
• Window inserts — custom acrylic or laminated inserts for existing windows.

Cost Table: Typical Prices (General Ranges)

Item	Typical Price Range	Notes
Acoustic caulk (tube)	$6–$15	Good for sealing many gaps; one tube for small rooms
Weatherstripping	$5–$25	Depends on length and material
Green Glue (2 tubes)	$40–$75	Covers ~16 sq ft between drywall layers
MLV (per sq ft)	$1.50–$4	Heavy and costly but effective
Roxul / Mineral wool (per batt)	$15–$40	Depends on thickness and R-value
Resilient channel (per 10 ft)	$8–$20	Price varies by gauge
Solid-core door	$150–$600+	Pre-hung units cost more
Window inserts (per window)	$100–$500+	Custom sizing affects price

Measuring Success: How to Test and Confirm Improvements

Soundproofing is measurable. To know you’re making progress, measure before and after. Even simple phone apps can give a rough comparison, while an SPL meter or hire a professional for STC testing for precise results.

DIY Measurement Steps

1. Pick a consistent measurement location in the room and a location outside the room where the noise originates (e.g., hallway or outside window).
2. Use a smartphone app or SPL meter to measure the ambient decibel level at the problem source and inside the room. Record several readings and average them to account for fluctuations.
3. Perform this before any treatment, then again after treatments. Compare the averages and note the dB change. A 10 dB reduction is perceived roughly as halving the loudness.

Remember that STC ratings are based on standardized tests in controlled conditions and might not match your in-room results perfectly, but they provide useful benchmarks when comparing materials and assemblies.

When to Call a Professional

Many treatments are DIY-friendly, but some situations call for an expert:

• Structural changes like double-stud walls, moving load-bearing walls, or replacing major HVAC components.
• Complex flanking paths or noise sources you can’t identify (e.g., low-frequency vibrations that travel through structure).
• When you need certified STC ratings for building code compliance or rental/condo improvements.
• For trade-offs between airflow and noise in HVAC — consult an HVAC acoustics specialist.

When hiring a pro, look for contractors experienced in architectural acoustics or a soundproofing contractor with references and documented project successes.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

A few common pitfalls can reduce the effectiveness of even the most expensive soundproofing materials. Here’s what to watch for:

Mistake: Treating One Surface Only

Fixing a window while ignoring the door and ceiling gives limited results. Sound will find the weakest path and continue to leak. Address all significant paths.

Mistake: Leaving Gaps Unsealed

An inch of unsealed gap near a window or outlet can nullify expensive treatments. Use acoustic caulk, gaskets, and properly fitted materials to maintain airtightness where needed.

Mistake: Confusing Absorption with Isolation

Acoustic foam reduces echo but doesn’t stop neighbors from hearing you. Choose mass, damping, and decoupling for isolation; use absorbers for internal acoustics.

Mistake: Improperly Installing Decoupling Systems

Resilient channels must be installed correctly (screw spacing, orientation) to be effective. Incorrect installation can create rigid connections that transmit sound rather than isolate it.

Legal and Neighbor Considerations

Before major soundproofing that affects shared buildings or exterior appearance, check local codes, HOA rules, or landlord permissions. Soundproofing that vents outside, replaces windows, or changes exterior finishes can have regulatory implications.

If noise issues involve neighbors, often a friendly discussion can lead to mutually acceptable solutions. Sometimes adding carpet or moving noisy activities to certain hours is easier and cheaper than full-scale soundproofing.

Troubleshooting: If It’s Still Too Noisy

If you’ve done work and still aren’t satisfied, re-check the basics. Do a systematic search for leaks, and consider whether low-frequency noise (bass) is the issue — bass needs more mass and decoupling. If the problem is structure-borne, isolating appliances or equipment may help. If the noise is intermittent, note times and patterns to trace the source.

Case Studies: Real-World Examples

Here are a few short case studies to show how the principles apply. I’ll describe the problem, the chosen solution, and the result.

Case Study 1: Apartment Living Room — Traffic Noise

Problem: Ground-floor apartment faced a busy street with loud traffic late at night. The tenant wanted better sleep and clearer TV listening.

Solution: The owner installed window inserts for the main window, added acoustic caulk to window frames, replaced the interior door with a solid-core unit and installed perimeter seals, and added thick curtains. They also hung bookshelves along the shared wall and installed dense rugs.

Result: The measured dB at night decreased by about 8–12 dB inside the living room, with perceived noise halved at night. The tenant reported much better sleep and less need for constant TV volume.

Case Study 2: Home Studio — Neighbor Complaint Risk

Problem: A hobby musician wanted louder practice sessions without disturbing neighbors in an attached townhouse.

Solution: A budget-friendly double-layer drywall with Green Glue was installed on the practice room wall common with the neighbor. The musician also upgraded the door to a solid-core unit and placed MLV in select spots. A rug and bass traps improved the room’s internal acoustics, allowing lower volumes to feel loud.

Result: Neighbors reported a noticeable reduction in audible music. The musician could practice at a much higher perceived loudness inside while staying within neighbor-friendly levels.

Case Study 3: Upstairs Footsteps — Multi-Family Solution

Problem: Tenants in a lower apartment complained about heavy footsteps from above.

Solution: The upstairs unit installed thick carpeting with dense padding and replaced lightweight furniture feet with rubber-cone pads. Where possible, the building manager added resilient underlayment in high-traffic areas during renovations.

Result: Impact noise decreased markedly, especially in the bottom unit’s sleeping areas. The changes were cost-effective and minimally invasive.

Maintenance and Long-Term Considerations

Soundproofing isn’t a one-time activity for all parts of a house. Seals can degrade, and renovations or work on one side of a wall can reopen flanking paths. Plan for periodic inspection of seals, door sweeps, window caulking, and any soft materials that might sag or compress over time.

If you installed materials like MLV or Green Glue, there’s little maintenance beyond protecting surfaces from damage. For HVAC modifications, maintain regular system checks so any added mufflers or linings don’t cause airflow problems.

Environmental and Safety Notes

When buying materials, look for non-toxic, formaldehyde-free insulation and products with clear safety data sheets. Some acoustic foams and older products may off-gas; choose materials labeled low-VOC and safe for indoor use. Installers should follow dust and respiratory protection guidelines when working with mineral wool or cutting construction materials.

Final Checklist: A Room-by-Room Plan to Get Quiet

Use this checklist to plan your soundproofing project in a logical sequence. Tackling tasks in the right order saves time and money.

1. Identify major noise sources and weakest paths with a walkthrough and measurement.
2. Seal gaps around windows, doors, outlets, and trim with acoustic caulk and weatherstripping.
3. Replace hollow doors with solid-core doors and install door sweeps.
4. Treat windows with inserts, plugs, or upgraded glazing if budget allows.
5. Add mass and damping to walls (double drywall + Green Glue, MLV) for significant airborne noise reduction.
6. Decouple walls or ceilings where low-frequency isolation is required (resilient channel, clips, or double-stud walls).
7. Address floors with rugs, underlayment, or floating floors to reduce impact noise.
8. Treat HVAC and ductwork with liners, mufflers, and flexible connections to eliminate flanking paths.
9. Improve interior acoustics with absorption, bass traps, and diffusers so the room feels quieter and more comfortable.
10. Measure results, tweak problem areas, and maintain seals over time.

Resources and Where to Learn More

For deeper technical detail, search for resources in architectural acoustics and look for manufacturer guides on Green Glue, MLV, resilient channel, and acoustic insulation. Many vendors provide performance data and installation guides. If you plan major structural changes or need certified ratings, consult an acoustical engineer or contractor who specializes in sound isolation.

Conclusion: Practical Quiet Is Achievable

Soundproofing a room for peace and quiet is an achievable goal whether you’re on a tight budget or ready for a full renovation. The most successful projects blend several approaches: sealing gaps, adding mass, using damping compounds, decoupling when needed, and controlling internal reflections. Start with the easiest, most cost-effective steps (seal gaps, weatherstrip, rugs), measure your results, and scale up to heavier treatments if you need more isolation.

Remember, there’s no one-size-fits-all solution. Your priorities — whether it’s reducing bass from a street, stopping footfall noise, or insulating a music room — determine which techniques are right. With a plan, the right materials, and patience, you can transform a noisy room into a quiet space that feels like a true refuge.

If you’d like, tell me about your specific room (dimensions, main noise source, photo descriptions) and I’ll suggest a tailored plan and a prioritized shopping list to get the best results for your budget.